Helpful
information for planning your trip to Marrakech
Living
the Life Forces workshop 2009
February 14 – 21
Marrakech, Morocco
For registration form
- click
here
Morocco is an Islamic country in North
Africa that spent many years under French rule, until independence
in 1956. Marrakech today houses a rapidly expanding population of
half a million. It is still a natural market place with a cultural
life that retains both the splendor of its periods as an imperial
capital and the traditions of its rural Berber
hinterlands.
Riyad
Edward
Riyad
Edward is in the Medina, the old walled city, north of Marrakech’s
main square, the Djema el Fna. It is a large traditional house and
is one of the principal Riyads in the area, formerly the home of
the Alaoui family, relatives of the country’s ruling family. The
Mosque of Sidi Bel Abbes and a charming square, easily accessible
by car, taxi or even horse carriage, adjoin the property. The
entrance to the house is by a typical Medina alley, which contrasts
strikingly with the interior of the house.
The terraces and interiors have been lovingly and authentically
restored from former neglect using traditional materials. The
entrance leads into a courtyard dominated by a tall cypress tree
that was planted over 100 years ago and orange trees. A swimming
pool runs between the courtyard’s central arches. Traditional
Moroccan doors open from the courtyard leading onto a large sitting
room and dining room and the master bedroom and bathroom.
The top floor terraces boast magnificent views of the town, the
mosques and the distant snow-capped Atlas Mountains. A strong
Moroccan influence runs throughout the property with stunning
tile-work, carved cedar ceilings and doors, and various local
artefacts and rugs scattered around the rooms.
To see photographs of the house go to www.riyadedward.com
There is WiFi available for internet access.
Workshop
schedule: the
workshop will begin at 6pm on Saturday, February 14 with dinner and
our opening circle, and close on Friday night with a festive
celebration. Departures will be after breakfast on the following
Saturday morning. You can arrive during the afternoon of the 14th.
We will workshop part of each day, and explore various parts of the
city together. We will eat breakfast and lunch or dinner at the
house each day, but you will be able to eat one meal while out. If
you would like to stay a night or two before or after, it is
possible to stay an extra night at the riyad for a discounted rate
of £60 [2008 prices] a room, which is about $115 (so if you share
with someone it would be half of that.) If you want an extra night
just let me know and I will arrange it. You can pay the riyad
directly for extra nights when you are there. (These prices above
will be re-confirmed in the next few weeks)
Participants: There will be approximately 22 in our group. We will
provide you with a list of the participants when it is
complete.
Workshop costs: The following is the schedule of payments and their
due dates. If you would like to have them billed to your credit
card on the dates due, please fill in and sign the attached form.
We will keep your credit card information on file and process the
payments on the due dates. (Due to the fluctuation of the US dollar
against other currencies we have set the prices in Euros to protect
against devaluation.) You may also use wire transfer. If so, please
contact us for bank details. Please note that there is a 50 EUR
late fee added to all payments not received by their due
dates.
The total
cost of the workshop is 1500
EUR, which is divided as
follows:
Non-refundable deposit - 450 EUR
Payment due November 1 - 350 EUR
Payment due December 1 - 350 EUR
Payment due January 1 - 350 EUR
This
includes:
• Workshop • Seven nights accommodation (double occupancy) •
Breakfasts and dinners between dinner on the 14 and breakfast on
the 21 • Group activities and transport • Workshop journal
NOTE:
It does not include your
flights/transportation to and from the workshop, lunches, or any
personal spending.
Cancellation
policy: Cancellations will automatically
forfeit all money paid unless we can fill your space, in which case
only the 450 EUR deposit is forfeited. (Please note: ‘Your space’
is determined by being able to replace you with someone of the same
sex. The room arrangements are double occupancy and so, if a single
person cancels we need to fill your space with someone of the same
sex. If a couple cancels we need to replace you with two people who
can share a room.)
Travel:
You can fly directly into
Marrakech. There are some direct flights from New York to
Casablanca on Royal Air Maroc, and from most major European cities,
especially London and Paris. You would then need a connecting
flight to Marrakech. I would suggest looking online at
www.kayak.com which is a search engine for sites offering flights
and will give you the cheapest available. I would also check out
the websites for your favorite airline or use your airmiles.
Airlines to explore are EasyJet and Atlas Blue from London, and
Corsair and Royal Air Maroc from Paris. If you would prefer to use
a travel agent in the USA we can recommend Helmut Kogler whose toll
free number is 866 297 1054 and his email is hkogler@jbatravel.com.
If any of you come across a great deal, let me know and we will
pass it on to the others.
Directions
from the airport:
The staff at Riyad Edward will arrange pick up from the airport for
us, as then the driver will know exactly where to take you! You
will be brought to the gateway nearest the riyad and then met by
the staff to escort you and transport your luggage to the
house.
Physical
condition:
Marrakech is not designed for those with limited physical mobility.
As the riyad is within the old walled city, which was built
hundreds of years before the advent of motor vehicles, there is a
five-minute walk from the gate where the cars have to leave us. The
house itself has a lot of fairly steep stone stairs between floors
and up to the roof terrace. We will be doing quite a bit of walking
as it is the best way to get around, and it is also a way to be
more connected with the place and people. It is possible to take
taxis and sometimes in the evening it is nice to take a horse-drawn
carriage home.
Immunizations:
You do not require any immunizations to travel to Morocco.
Insurance: Travel insurance is recommended, although you may have
coverage if you buy your ticket with a credit card. Check your
coverage. Please also check with your health insurance provider to
make sure you will be covered abroad. Be sure to bring proof of
insurance that is applicable.
Luggage:
Outside the US there are weight restrictions of checked bags.
Luggage is weighed as it is checked and you are only allowed 20
kilos (45lbs). Passengers traveling through London are only allowed
one piece of carryon. There is a high price to pay if you are
overweight! New for 2008 is many airlines charging for more than
one checked bag. Please check with your airline for its latest
rules.
Passport:
A valid passport that does not expire during your stay is required.
If you do not have one, it is a good idea to begin the process
now.
Visas:
All US, British and European citizens are granted a three month
visa upon arrival in Morocco. If you are traveling from other
countries on this trip, make sure you check the visa
requirements: www.moroccanconsulate.com
Language:
Arabic and French are the main languages and many people also speak
English.
Currency:
The official currency is the Morrocan Dirham. These are the
exchange rates as of August 2008.
100 Euros = 138 MAD
US $100 = 738 MAD
£100 = 1438 MAD
Aus $100 = 671 MAD
A good website to check and convert currency is www.xe.com
You can exchange your money in a variety of locations in Marrakech.
However, it is a good idea to have some liquid cash, even dollars,
to cover the first few couple of days. The easiest way to change
money is to use an ATM card. It is difficult finding places to
change travelers checks. Tourists are not allowed to take any
Moroccan money out of the country, so please budget carefully and
keep exchange slips as you may only reconvert on departure half of
what you can prove you have converted to dirhams during your stay.
As with most places, credit cards are also accepted.
Come prepared to be tempted by all manner of beautiful things to
buy! Carpets and rugs, ceramics, jewelry… You will have plenty of
opportunity to try your hand at bargaining, after the requisite
glass of sweet mint tea.
Weather:
The weather in Marrakech is sunny nearly all year round, with
pleasantly warm summers and mild winters. Winter can bring heavy
downpours of rain, which leave the streets of the old town very
muddy, and winter nights can be cold. In February the temperatures
will be between 8C / 47F degrees and 21C / 69F. Last year, a week
earlier, it was very warm during the day. It is often warm enough
for shirtsleeves during the day, but can get pretty chilly at
night, so pack accordingly, and bring plenty of layers to cover all
temperatures.
Electrical
info:
Some wall sockets in Morocco are only suitable for low voltage
appliances. Two pin round plugs are the norm. There is wifi
internet connection available in the sitting room only. We will
have our laptops with us and if you wish to check email briefly,
you may use our computers.
Meal information: Moroccan food is very delicious, fresh and
healthy, and of course, also has been influenced by the French. For
breakfast we can expect pancakes and honey, fruit salad, yoghurt,
croissants and eggs. It will be different every day; and for dinner
lots of salads, with grilled or roasted meat, and traditional
Moroccan food.
Clothing:
It is important to honor cultural differences when choosing what to
wear. As Morocco is a Muslim country it is appropriate to dress
modestly, with no sleeveless tops, shorts or short skirts. Please
bring comfortable shoes as we will be doing lots of walking. The
pool will probably be a bit chilly but you might want to bring a
swimsuit just in case.
Activities: I am now going to describe some of the possibilities
available to us while we are in Marrakech. We have decided not to
cast our plans in stone, as we want to remain flexible and open to
opportunities that arise while we are there. We will do at least
one full day out into to the mountains and Ourika Valley where
there is a wonderful market every Monday.
We will workshop approximately half of each day, either morning or
afternoon, depending on the weather, what is happening that day,
and where we are in the workshop process. Some evenings we may
work, others we will bring musicians to sing and play for us. Some
days we will go out as a group to visit places of interest which
will include historic buildings, the extraordinary labyrinthine
bazaar, the main square, the local hammam, beautiful gardens,
carpet stores……Some days we may send you off in pairs or groups
with a specific task to complete. You can be sure that you will
have a rich and integrated experience of Marrakech. We promised you
an inner and outer journey and we will not neglect either
part!
I would encourage you to do some reading about Marrakech and/or
Morocco too, as it makes the whole experience richer. There are
many different guidebooks, as well as autobiographies and novels
set in Morocco that provide a taste of the culture and the country.
I will be including some background on Marrakech and Morocco in
your workshop journal, which will be mailed to you in early
January, along with some questions to get you thinking about this
upcoming journey and what it means to you.
The Jemaa
el Fna – This is the
great central square of the medina.
“As the morning progresses a perimeter
is formed by lines of barrows selling nuts and freshly squeezed
orange juice, and the edges of the square erupt into a sea of
shops. The center is filled by a random and changing assortment of
snake-charmers, storytellers, acrobats, dentists, water-sellers,
scribes, monkeys, clowns and dancing boys. But at dusk the Jemaa el
Fna comes into its own, and returns to its true audience of
visiting Berber farmers from the plains, deserts and mountains.
Lines of kitchens set up their groaning tables, braziers and
benches beneath hissing gas lamps. Here you can dine on a great
assortment of salads, vats of brewing goat’s head soup, fresh
grilled or fried vegetables, chickens, fish and mutton. You can
move from table to table trying different platefuls and break off
to wander among the musicians and storytellers. Sharp young street
kids hiss “Hashish!”, veiled women offer trinkets, or sit beckoning
by their stock of woven baskets and wooly hats.
Innocent looking children with beguiling almond eyes solicit, or
try rather clumsily to pick your pockets. From worn tarot card, the
waddle of sacred doves, ink dots, cast bones, or your palm,
incidents from a possible future will be divined by hunched figures
perched on low stools, surrounded by the instruments of their
trade. As the evening progresses the crowds thin, the kitchens
close and small knots of musicians are left, surrounded by a
crouching audience furtively smoking their pipes. This is the time
to seek out the powerful music influence by the spiritual
brotherhoods, freed from the relevancies of a tourist audience. The
repetitive, rhythmical music produced on drums, flutes, crude
violins is far removed from light entertainment. Shuffling dancers
are animated by a spirit that plays upon piety and continence at
one moment and sends lewd erotic displays in the next breath.
The Jemaa el Fna is a rich but undeniably exhausting carnival. It
encapsulates much of the fascination of Morocco, the difference,
colour and energy of its alien culture, compounded by a rarely
diminished sensation of being a stranger on the edge of
understanding.”
Excerpt from “The Cadogan guide to
Morocco”, by Barnaby Rogerson.