Helpful information in planning your
trip to Marrakech
Marrakech, Morocco
Morocco is an Islamic country that
spent many years under French rule, until independence in 1956.
Marrakech today houses a rapidly expanding population of half a
million. It is still a natural market place with a cultural life
that retains both the splendor of its periods as an imperial
capital and the traditions of its rural Berber
hinterlands.
Riyad
Edward
Riyad Edward is in the Medina, the old
walled city, north of Marrakech’s main square, the Djema el Fna. It
is a large traditional house and is one of the principal Riyads in
the area, formerly the home of the Alaoui family, relatives of the
country’s ruling family. The Mosque of Sidi Bel Abbes and a
charming square, easily accessible by car, taxi or even horse
carriage, adjoin the property. The entrance to the house is by a
typical Medina alley, which contrasts strikingly with the interior
of the house.
The terraces and interiors have been lovingly and authentically
restored from former neglect using traditional materials. The
entrance leads into a pretty courtyard dominated by a tall cypress
tree that was planted over 100 years ago and orange trees. A
swimming pool runs between the courtyard’s central arches.
Traditional Moroccan doors open from the courtyard leading onto a
large sitting room and dining room and the master bedroom and
bathroom.
The top floor terraces boast magnificent views of the town, the
mosques and the distant snow-capped Atlas Mountains. A strong
Moroccan influence runs throughout the property with stunning
tile-work, carved cedar ceilings and doors, and various local
artefacts and rugs scattered around the rooms.
To see photographs of the house go to www.riyadedward.com
There is WiFi available for internet
access.
Workshop
schedule: the
workshop will begin at 6pm on Saturday, February ? {dates to be
confirmed}, with dinner and our opening circle, and close on Friday
night with a festive celebration. Departures will be after
breakfast on the following Saturday morning. You can arrive during
the afternoon of the 9th. We will workshop part of each day, and
explore various parts of the city together. We will eat breakfast
and lunch or dinner at the house each day, but you will be able to
eat one meal while out. If you would like to stay a night or two
before or after, it is possible to stay an extra night at the riyad
for a discounted rate of £60 [2007 prices] a room, which is about
$115 (so if you share with someone it would be half of that.) If
you want an extra night just let me know and I will arrange it. You
can pay the riyad directly for extra nights when you are there.
[These prices above will be re-confirmed in the next few weeks -
April 2008]
Participants:
There will be approximately
22 in our group. We will keep you updated on the list of
participants as this grows.
Workshop
costs: The following
is the schedule of payments and their due dates. If you would like
to have them billed to your credit card on the dates due, please
fill in and sign the attached form. We will keep your credit card
information on file and process the payments on the due dates. (Due
to the fluctuation of the US dollar against other currencies we
have decided to set the prices in euros to protect against
devaluation.) You may also use wire transfer. Please note that
there is a 50 EUR late fee added to all payments not received by
their due dates.
The total cost of the workshop is 1700 EUR, which is divided as
follows:
Non-refundable deposit - 300 EUR
Payment due October 1 - 500 EUR
Payment due November 1 - 500 EUR
Payment due December 1 - 400 EUR
This includes:
• Workshop
• Seven nights accommodation (double occupancy)
• Breakfasts and dinners between dinner on the 9 and breakfast on
the 16
• Group activities
• Workshop journal
It does not include your flights/transportation to and from the
workshop, lunches, or any personal spending.
Cancellation
policy: Cancellations will automatically
forfeit all money paid unless we can fill your space, in which case
only the 300 EUR deposit is forfeited.
Travel:
You can fly directly into
Marrakech. There are some direct flights from New York to
Casablanca on Royal Air Maroc, and from most major European cities,
especially London and Paris. You would then need a connecting
flight to Marrakech. I would suggest looking online at
www.kayak.com
which is a search engine
for sites offering flights and will give you the cheapest
available. I would also check out the websites for your favorite
airline or use your airmiles. Airlines to explore are EasyJet and
Atlas Blue from London, and Corsair and Royal Air Maroc from Paris.
If you would prefer to use a travel agent in the USA we can
recommend Helmut Kogler whose toll free number is 866 297 1054 and
his email is hkogler@jbatravel.com.
If any of you come across a great deal, let me know and I will pass
it on to the others.
Directions
from the airport:
The staff at Riyad Edward will arrange
pick up from the airport for us, as then the driver will know
exactly where to take you! You will be brought to the gateway
nearest the riyad and then met to escort you and carry your luggage
to the house.
Physical
condition:
Marrakech is not designed for those
with limited physical mobility. As the riyad is within the old
walled city, which was built hundreds of years before the advent of
motor vehicles, there is a five-minute walk from the gate where the
cars have to leave us. The house itself has a lot of fairly steep
stone stairs between floors and up to the roof terrace. We will be
doing quite a bit of walking as it is the best way to get around,
and it is also a way to be more connected with the place and
people. It is possible to take taxis and sometimes in the evening
it is nice to take a horse-drawn carriage home.
Immunizations:
You do not require any immunizations to travel to
Morocco.
Insurance: Travel
insurance is recommended, although you may have coverage if you buy
your ticket with a credit card. Check your coverage. Please also
check with your health insurance provider to make sure you will be
covered abroad. Be sure to bring proof of insurance that is
applicable.
Luggage:
Outside the US there are
weight restrictions of checked bags. Luggage is weighed as it is
checked and you are only allowed 20 kilos (45lbs).
Last year people traveling through London were only allowed one
piece of carryon. There is a high price to pay if you are
overweight!
Passport:
A valid passport that does
not expire during your stay is required. If you do not have one, it
is a good idea to begin the process now.
Visas:
All US, British and
European citizens are granted a three month visa upon arrival in
Morocco. If you are traveling from other countries on this trip,
make sure you check the visa requirements. http://www.moroccanconsulate.com
Language:
Arabic and French are the
main languages and many people also speak English.
Currency:
The official currency is
the Morrocan Dirham. These are the exchange rates as of July 2007.
THese will updated for 2008 prices nearer the time of
booking.
100 Euros = 112 MAD
US $100 = 813 MAD
£100 = 1665 MAD
Aus $100 = 710 MAD
A good website to check and convert currency is www.xe.com
You can exchange your money in a variety of locations in Marrakech.
However, it is a good idea to have some liquid cash, even dollars,
to cover the first few couple of days. The easiest way to change
money is to use an ATM card. We had problems finding places to
change travelers checks last year. Tourists are not allowed to take
any Moroccan money out of the country, so please budget carefully
and keep exchange slips as you may only reconvert on departure half
of what you can prove you have converted to dirhams during your
stay. As with most places, credit cards are also accepted.
Come prepared to be tempted by all manner of beautiful things to
buy! Carpets and rugs, ceramics, jewelry….You will have plenty of
opportunity to try your hand at bargaining, after the requisite
glass of sweet mint tea.
Weather:
The weather in Marrakech is
sunny nearly all year round, with pleasantly warm summers and mild
winters. Winter can bring heavy downpours of rain, which leave the
streets of the old town very muddy, and winter nights can be cold.
In February the temperatures will be between 8C / 47F degrees and
21C / 69F. It is often warm enough for shirtsleeves during the day,
but can get pretty chilly at night, so pack accordingly, and bring
plenty of layers to cover all temperatures.
Electrical
info:
Some wall
sockets in Morocco are only suitable for low voltage appliances.
Two pin round plugs are the norm.
Meal
information:
Moroccan food is very delicious and
healthy, and of course, also has been influenced by the French. For
breakfast we can expect pancakes and honey, fruit salad, yoghurt,
croissants and eggs. It will be different every day; and for dinner
lots of salads, with grilled or roasted meat, and traditional
Moroccan food.
Clothing:
It is important to honor
cultural differences when choosing what to wear. As Morocco is a
Muslim country it is appropriate to dress modestly, with no
sleeveless tops, shorts or short skirts. Please bring comfortable
shoes as we will be doing lots of walking. The pool will probably
be a bit chilly but you might want to bring a swimsuit just in
case.
Activities:
I am now going to describe
some of the possibilities available to us while we are in
Marrakech. We have decided not to cast our plans in stone, as we
want to remain flexible and open to opportunities that arise while
we are there. We will do at least one full day out into to the
mountains and Ourika Valley where there is a wonderful market every
Monday.
We will workshop approximately half of each day, either morning or
afternoon, depending on the weather, what is happening that day,
and where we are in the workshop process. Some days we will go out
as a group to visit places of interest which will include historic
buildings, the extraordinary labyrinthine bazaar, the main square,
the local hammam, beautiful gardens, carpet stores……Some days we
may send you off in pairs or groups with a specific task to
complete. You can be sure that you will have a rich and integrated
experience of Marrakech. We promised you an inner and outer journey
and we will not neglect either part!
I would encourage you to do some reading about Marrakech and/or
Morocco too, as it makes the whole experience richer. There are
many different guidebooks, as well as autobiographies and novels
set in Morocco that provide a taste of the culture and the country.
I will be including some background on Marrakech and Morocco in
your workshop journal, which will be mailed to you in January,
along with some questions to get you thinking about this upcoming
journey and what it means to you.
The Jemaa el Fna – This is the great
central square of the medina. “As the morning progresses a
perimeter is formed by lines of barrows selling nuts and freshly
squeezed orange juice, and the edges of the square erupt into a sea
of shops. The center is filled by a random and changing assortment
of snake-charmers, storytellers, acrobats, dentists, water-sellers,
scribes, monkeys, clowns and dancing boys.
But at dusk the Jemaa el Fna comes into its own, and returns to its
true audience of visiting Berber farmers from the plains, deserts
and mountains. Lines of kitchens set up their groaning tables,
braziers and benches beneath hissing gas lamps. Here you can dine
on a great assortment of salads, vats of brewing goat’s head soup,
fresh grilled or fried vegetables, chickens, fish and mutton. You
can move from table to table trying different platefuls and break
off to wander among the musicians and storytellers. Sharp young
street kids hiss “Hashish!”, veiled women offer trinkets, or sit
beckoning by their stock of woven baskets and wooly hats.
Innocent looking children with beguiling almond eyes solicit, or
try rather clumsily to pick your pockets. From worn tarot card, the
waddle of sacred doves, ink dots, cast bones, or your palm,
incidents from a possible future will be divined by hunched figures
perched on low stools, surrounded by the instruments of their
trade. As the evening progresses the crowds thin, the kitchens
close and small knots of musicians are left, surrounded by a
crouching audience furtively smoking their pipes. This is the time
to seek out the powerful music influence by the spiritual
brotherhoods, freed from the relevancies of a tourist audience. The
repetitive, rhythmical music produced on drums, flutes, crude
violins is far removed from light entertainment. Shuffling dancers
are animated by a spirit that plays upon piety and continence at
one moment and sends lewd erotic displays in the next breath.
The Jemaa el Fna is a rich but undeniably exhausting carnival. It
encapsulates much of the fascination of Morocco, the difference,
colour and energy of its alien culture, compounded by a rarely
diminished sensation of being a stranger on the edge of
understanding.”
Excerpt from “The Cadogan guide to
Morocco”, by Barnaby Rogerson.
The
Medina: Beyond the
northern edge of the Jemaa el Fna stretches the great souk of
Marrakech. It is a triumphant, labyrinthine marketplace, a
glittering display of all the traditional arts and regional crafts
of Morocco, grouped together by trade in separate but interlinked
streets and courtyards. There are turners, weavers, carpenters,
tailors, spices, pottery, bright silks, embroidered cloth, carpets,
kelims, leather goods and more.